Undergarment



(No Model.) 2sfheets-sheet 1.

. UNDBRGARMBNT. No. 551,604.v Patented 1390.17, 1895. @l 12ga.

ANDREW ELGRAMAM. PHOTO-UTHU.WASHINGTDN.U C.

(N0 Model.) 2 sheets-sheet 2.

H. L. SHAVBR.

UNDBRGARMENT.

ANDREW SLIIAHAMv FNO'I'O'UTHU.WASHINGTUN.DC

UNITED STATES PATENT. FFIC-E.

HENRY L. SHAVER, OF'COHOES, NEV YORK.

UNQERGARMENT.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 551,604, dated December 17, 1895.

Application lecl April l0, 1895.

To all whom t may concern:

Beitknown that I, HENRYL. SHAvEaacitzen of the United States, residing at Cohoes, county of Albany, and'State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Undergarments, of which the following is a specification.

The invention relates to such improvements; and it consists of the novel construction and combination of parts hereinafter described and subsequently claimed.

Reference may be had to the accompanying drawings, and the letters of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.v

Similar letters refer to similar parts in the several iigures therein.

Figure l of the drawings is a plan view of a section of tubular web of knitted fabric of suitable width for the body part of an undergarment. Fig. 2 is a similar view of a like section of fabric of suitable width for the sleeves of an undergarment. are similar views of the body and sleeve portions cut from the web-sections on the dotted lines shown in Figs. l and 2. Fig. isaplan view of the front of a completed undergarment with the bosom-flaps united by an inserted gore-shaped piece of fabric folded upon itself. Fig. 6 is a view similar to that shown in Fig. 5 with the bosom-iiaps separated and the gore-piece unfolded. Fig. 7 is a View similar to that shown in Figs. 5 and 6, with the`bosom-flaps partially closed by shirringstrings and the gore-piece gathered in small folds between the iiaps. Fig. S is a top plan view of the garment as the same would appear on a form with the sleeves extended at right angles to the body. Fig. 9 is a view of the triangular gore -shaped bosom-section. For convenience in illustration, the extremities of the garment are shown broken away. Fig. 10 is a vertical section of the inserted bosom-section on an enlarged scale, taken at the broken line l0 l0 in Fig. 6.

My invention is especially applicable to undergarments made of knitted fabric, and to fabric knitted upon cylinder-machines in the form of a tubular web.

The 'objects of the invention are to improve the fit and appearance of the garment, to facilitate the operation of putting the garment Figs. 3 and 4,

serai No. 545,176. (No mau.)

on and off, and to avoid the use of seams across the top of the shoulder.

Referring to the drawings, A is a section of a iiattened tubular web of knitted fabric of a size suitable for the body part of an undergarment, and A is a suitable section of smaller size for a sleeve.

A2 represents the body-section after portions of section A have been cut off on the dotted broken lines in Fig. l to form the sleeveopenings A3 and neck-opening A4. Aslit A5 is cut down the front to form a continuation of the neck-opening.

A6 represents the sleeve-section after a portion has been cut out from the section A on the dotted lines in Fig. 2. The eut edges of the sleeve-section are secured by stitches or in any known manner to the cut edges around an arm-openingof the body-section, as seen in Figs. 5, 6, 7 and 8.

B is a triangular or gore-shaped section of either knitted or woven fabric, which is inserted in the bosom 'of the body part, the oblique edges Bl of which are secured by stitching or in any known manner to the edges of the bosom-naps A7 and A8, as seen in Figs. 6 and 7. The upper edge B2 of the inserted section is folded down along the dotted line in Fig. l0 and its end turned in and secured by a line of stitching B3, as shown in Fig. 6, forming a hem B4 adapted to contain the shirring-strings B5 and B6. The string B5 is secured at one end to the bosom-flap A7 or contiguous edge of the inserted section, and has its other end projecting out through an aperture in the other flap. The string B6 contiguous edge of the inserted section, and has its other end projecting out through an aperture in the other flap.

The construction and operation of the shirring-strings may be that of any ofthe common and well-known forms.

/Vhen the garment is not in use the bosomsection may be folded along its middle at the dotted line C in Fig. 6 to the position indicated by dotted lines C2 in Fig. 5, where it lies beneath the bosom-nap A8, the bosomflaps being brought together, as shown in Fig. 5, permitting the garment to be otherwise folded in the usual Well-known manner.

When it is desired to put the garment on is secured at one end to the bosom-flap A8, orA

IOO

or take it off, the flaps are separated until the bosom-section is fully distended, as shown in Fig. 6, thereby affording a large opening for the passage of the wearers head.

After the garment has been put on, the upper parts of the iiaps are drawn toward each other by means of the shirring-strings, as desired, to fit the form of the wearer and may be secured in place by tying the projecting ends of the strings together. I am thus able to make my improved garment fit persons who vary-largely in bust measurement.

It is well known that the elasticity of knitted fabric is much greater erosswise than lengthwise of the web.

By means of my improved construction, the sleeve-section is easily expanded crosswise over the shoulder, whereby a comfortable and perfect iit of the sleeve is secured not only the entire length of the arm, but over the shoulder as well; also the cross-seam found in previous constructions over the shoulder, by which the sleeve is joined to the body part, is avoided, thereby greatly adding tothe comfort of the wearer.

By having the junction-seam (J4 between the sleeve and body approximately radial to the neck-opening and inserting a contractile bosom-section, I am able to secure a comfortable and easy fit of the garment to the shoulders, chest and bosom of the wearer.

If one end of a transversely-elastic web of tubular fabric is secured to one side of a similar web which is comparatively inelastic lengthwise of such side, the elasticity of such end transversely of the web is limited to the elasticity of the seam by which the parts are united; but if one or both of the parts are eut diagonally of the web and the two parts are united along such cut edge or edges there is a resultant elasticity which can be obtained when the parts are secured together side to end. The transverse expansions of the diagonally-cut and united parts co-operate to produce a resultant expansion which promotes the adjustment of the garment to the form of the wearer. The relative transverse expansions of the bodypart and sleeve parts depend upon the relative size of the shoulders and chest of the wearer, and will yield one to the other to promote the fit of the garment.

I am able to regulate and control the re-` sultant expansion of the sleeve and body parts, and evenly divide the expansion between the two parts by means of the contractile bosom-section, and the adjusting shirrinff-strings, whereby the iit of the garment is promoted and excessive strain upon parts of the fabric prevented. y

lVhat I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent,is-

l. An undergarment comprising a transversely-elastic body-web of knitted fabric provided with a neck-opening and having arm-holes with a V-shaped shoulder opening terminating near the neck-openin g, and transversely-elastic tubular knitted sleeves having an upper V-shaped end-extension integral therewith, the edges of the sleeve-extensions being secured to the edges of the shoulderopenings, whereby the transverse expansions of the diagonally cut and united parts cooperate to produce'a resultant expansion which promotes the adjustment of the garment to the form of the wearer, substantially as described.

2. An undergarment comprising a transversely-elastic body-web of knitted falnic provided with a neck-opening and a front slit, and having arm-holes with a V-shaped shoulder-openin g terminating near the neckopening, transversely-elastic tubular knitted sleeves having an upper V-shaped end-ex.- tension integral therewith, the edges of the sleeve-extensions being secured to the edges of the shoulder-openings, a non-elastic contractile bosom-section inserted in the front slit, and means for contracting the bosomsection, substantially4 as described.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand this lst day of April, 1895.

HENRY L. SI'IAVER. Witnesses:

GEO. A. MosHER, FRANK C. CURTIS.- 

